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A winter adventure on the NC500
Article originally published in VW Bus Magazine
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The North Coast 500- ever present on bucket lists and iconic at any time of year, where else would you head when storm Dennis is bearing down on the UK?
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For those people that know us, it may come as a surprise that up to two days out from our February half term break, we were still undecided between the NC500 or the Cornish coast. Having got caught in the floods of storm Cira the weekend before and having a 2am evacuation had caused us to question the viability of the NC500 in winter. It’s such a long way to the start, it’s so isolated, it’s winter, nowhere will be open, daylight will be limited were all things circulating in the back of our mind. As the proceeding week progressed, the weather forecast for Scotland steadily improved, as predictions for Cornwall deteriorated- our decision was made to head north. Although we were aware of the NC500, we had done very little research into the practicalities of the trip. We knew it was iconic, we knew it was ideal for campervans and we knew we had the time. Looking at the online advice, we gleaned that it was best to tackle the route in an anticlockwise direction and spending more time on the West coast, indulging our passion for stunning beaches and craggy mountain landscapes.
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Experiences from trips earlier in the year to Mull and the Outer Hebrides had shown us how accessible Scotland is from our home in Cheshire. Finishing work on the Thursday night, we decided to drive hard to Aviemore, putting us within easy reach of Inverness the following morning to maximise our time for the NC500. Luckily the M6 was kind to us and we pulled up at one of our favourite wild camping spots Alt More in the early hours of the morning after a 6 and a half hour drive. With the Aviemore area deep in snow, we were grateful that the forestry carpark had been freshly ploughed. Alt More is a simply stunning and isolated location- a perfect example of what can be found on the Park for the Night App. With no plans for the week ahead, the app would provide invaluable in finding our accommodation when we decided it was time to call a halt to the day.
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After waking to a cold, crisp and clear morning in our forest paradise, it was time to hit the road. The forecast for the first few days was pretty poor, so our plan to push north quickly was confirmed. A quick stop off in Inverness for final supplies, we made our first diversion off the official route. One of our adventure “go to” resources are the Wild series of travel books. We love the wide range of hidden adventures and experiences that the books promote, and the Wild Scotland guide really did unearth some hidden gems both on and off the official NC route. We headed to the Black Isle and Cromarty head, allegedly one of the best spots in Britain to spot bottle nosed dolphins. Unfortunately, there were none to be seen, but we consoled ourselves with watching the seals playing a short distance offshore. The forecast 3 hour window of sun materialised and we took advantage of the blue skies to climb to the Fyrish Monument to soak up the amazing views across the Morray Firth. Pushing north, after an obligatory stop off at the Glenmorangie Distillery, we found a beautifully isolated park up at Noss Head for a romantic Valentines meal and a night of planning for the following day.
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It’s not normal to visit an ancient and deserted castle before breakfast, but when it is a 5-minute walk from the van it would be rude not to. As we hit the northern most parts of the route, the wind built to unbelievable intensity. John o’ Groats was deserted, but a must do from the bucket list. A 5-minute diversion drive to the Duncansby Lighthouse and the short walk to the iconic sea stacks is highly recommended to really experience the wildest parts of Britain. Driving west the conditions got wilder, making it a great time to watch the local surfers at Thurso, and seeing us find shelter, a hot shower and a pub fire. Before the beers we had an evening stroll on Melvich’s beautiful red sand beach and sat and watched a sea otter playing in the shallows. The following day was even wilder, but we knew we were getting closer to the famed beaches of the western coast. As storm Dennis escalated, it was only sensible to take a break in the local Rock Rose gin distillery, before finding a suitably sheltered park up for the night. Our target for the following day was the walk into Sandwood Bay, the park for the night app suggested Oldshoremore, a beautiful little spot that offered us a safe haven to hunker down and experience Dennis at his peak.
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After a restless night of high winds and driving rain, we really experienced the calm after the storm. A morning stroll before breakfast on the deserted Scourie Bay, followed by the long walk into Sandwood Bay. It’s a real trek, across wild moorland, but well worth the effort. Two hours later we were treated to the most unbelievable sights- we didn’t know that places like his existed in Britain. A real Robinson Crusoe moment of absolute isolation, with only the local sheep for company. We also experienced the wildness of Scottish weather, getting hit by a flash hailstorm that appeared from nowhere and disappeared as fast as it arrived. With most of the day gone after getting back to the van, we made the short drive to Drumbeg, off the official NC500 route on single track roads, but definitely worth the drive. Another free wild camp, with access to public toilets in the most idyllic village, with the park-up looking out to sea. The wild guide flagged up the Old Man of Stoer as our next adventure, so another long and eventful walk ensued. The lack of footpaths on the coastal walk meant a couple of unintended bog snorkelling moments. The highlight of the day was surprisingly not the iconic sea stack but looking out into the Atlantic ocean and seeing parallel downpours heading our way. We followed the advice of nature (the sheep) and sheltered in a natural hollow, waiting patiently as both downpours passed us by- a humbling moment, realising just how powerful nature can really be. This was further reinforced when visiting Achmelvich Bay, one of Britain’s most beautiful beaches…in the snow. Possibly a once in a lifetime opportunity to make a snow man on the beach!
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A number of locals suggested a significant detour off the NC500 route to Altandhu and Stac Pollaidh and they weren’t wrong with their advice. The opportunity to sit and watch the sun set over the summer isles, followed by a real “blue bird” day of climbing Stac Pollaidh will last long in the memory. The freakishly good weather continued to our next camp at Gruinard Bay, with the rare opportunity for a fire on the beach under the clear, star filled skies. Once again, we relied on advice from the friendly locals, this time when trying to fix a slow puncture when seemingly miles from civilisation. A quick trip to the nearest garage, we then back peddled on the mechanics advice to Mellon Udrigle- the local’s hidden gem of a beach. We are great believers that things happen for a reason, and mechanicals with vans are just part of the adventure. The last stage of the west coast had to be the drivers mecca of Applecross and the famed Bealach na Ba pass. The opportunity to meet the famed local “coos” (and goats!?!) on the moors, followed by the mandatory stop at the Applecross Inn for refreshment was the prelude to one of Britain’s finest mountain pass drives. To be honest, it was really fun, but at this time of year mercifully quiet. I don’t think it would be the same experience at the peak of the tourist season. Although shorter than many of the Alpine passes of Europe, it really did have the feel of some of the great drives of Europe.
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With a tinge of sadness, we reached the end point of our tour at Strathcarron, where we duly turned south and headed for home, but not without a few more adventures before we crossed the border. Plockton was first in our sights, a beautiful little fishing village that seemingly gets huge coverage on Instagram for its natural beauty. Our camp for the night overlooked Eilean Castle, which when illuminated for the night made for a surreal view from the van in our free camping spot. Glencoe remains a favourite stop off for us to break the journey home. Not needing the facilities of a campsite, we had a hot shower at the Glencoe mountain resort, then a beer in the Clachaig Inn and a wild camp at Loch Achriochtan, knowing that we needed an early start to beat the forecast of heavy snow on the journey home. We need not have worried, the Scottish authorities did us proud, with all roads clear and running freely, with seemingly never-ending numbers of gritters and ploughs to get us home safely.
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Having reflected on our week were our worries at the start of the journey well founded?
It’s a long way to the start- yes it is… but it is eminently doable in one (long) drive and definitely worth the effort.
It’s so isolated- yes it is… and that adds to the appeal!
It’s winter- we were never cold. Make sure you are equipped for all weathers.
Nowhere will be open- Food stores and petrol stations never shut for the community- what more do you need?
Daylight will be limited- we never noticed this, we just got up and got going early!
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Sources of inspiration
Scottish tourist information NC500 map & guide- a well thought out and free resource.
NC500 App- provides a range of recommendations in real time using GPS data- a very clever, intuitive and free app.
Wild Scotland book- for discovering the hidden gems on and off route.
Google maps- for navigation when phone signal is available.
Park for the night App for wild camping recommendations.
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Off the beaten track
Fyrish Monument
Sinclair Castle
Stacks of Duncansby
Sandwood Bay
Old Man of Stoer sea stack.
Achitibuie & Stac Pollaidh additional loop off the official route.
Mellon Udrigle beach
Lower Diabaig village.
Bealach na Ba pass.
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