For a variety of reasons, the summer of 2021 was to be a summer of staying close to home and rediscovering the places on our doorstep, only this time in the luxury of our VW T6 Campervan Nelson, rather than under the tent canvas of our youth.
The Yorkshire Dales has always had it all- mountains, rivers, wildlife and most importantly, cracking pubs! It has changed very little in the 40 years we have been visiting, and it never loses its appeal. Our ability to travel this summer was very much limited due to a family crisis, but as a couple, we needed our time away in Nelson- our happy place- our sanctuary. It is fair to say that our limited time in the van over this summer kept us sane and enabled us to continue to support our family in the best way we could.
Our summer consisted of a series of overnight getaways to our favourite hidden locations and off the beaten track hideaways, all the time knowing that we could get back to our family at short notice in an emergency. It was not an easy time, but it was all we had and we will remain forever grateful for that time with family, and also the time together as a couple in our own happy VW space. The Yorkshire Dales are basically split into four regions, all with their own distinct characteristics and unique geographical landscapes.
Wharfedale and Malhamdale have some of the most picturesque villages in the region. Kettlewell has a beautiful, traditional campsite that only accepts tents and small VW type Campervans. It is incredibly popular for good reason, so make sure you book early. A small and intimate site on the edge of the village, with amazing showers (including underfloor heating!) and the ability to have campfires under clear skies is hard to beat. As a village, Kettlewell has a number of good pubs that all serve great food- so no need to cook unless you really want to. Further north up the Wharfedale valley lies Buckden, another pretty village but a little smaller, with less pubs! It too has a campsite in the centre of the village, although it is a bit of a haven for out caravanning friends.
The whole of the Wharfedale valley has miles of beautiful riverside walks, potential wild swimming spots and fells to climb if you are feeling energetic. Also in this region lies the climbing hotspot of Malham. Above the quaint little village lies Malham Cove, home to acres of the most amazing limestone pavements so synonymous with this region. Again, some cracking foodie pubs and a range of amazing water falls and rock pools to discover only a short walk from the village centre.
Ribblesdale and the Three Peak region remains the central area of the Dales. The epic 3 peaks challenge is not to be taken likely, a 20+ mile walk over Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough- starting and ending in Horton in Ribblesdale, all in under 12 hours! All of these peaks can be tackled individually and make for a challenging day out. Very much a must see in the area is the Ribblehead viaduct, a monument to the Victorian love of engineering which spans the entire valley. The town of Settle is very much the gateway to this part of the Dales, offering everything a campervan traveller could need including a very expensive Booths supermarket and possibly one of the best fish and chip shops in the UK.
This area of the Dales is riddled with deep limestone caves, some of which are easily accessible show caves, and others being some of the wildest underground caverns in the world that are best left to the experts! Campsites are a plenty here, with a cheap and cheerful option at Dalesbridge Campsite- great wood fired pizzas, but the showers are not the best. We love this area for wild camping spots, but remember to arrive late, leave early and leave no trace.
The Western Dales have a wild and undiscovered feel, isolated valleys linked only by winding, single track roads. Until recently we have not really spent a massive amount of time exploring this area, but it is a hidden treasure, and definitely worth a visit. The geography of the area has a different feel to the rest of the Dales, somehow feeling more cut off and remote. The village of Dent is beyond belief in looks, with it’s winding cobbled main street that meanders gently through the heart of the village- taking you back to a time gone by. Further northwest lies Sedbergh, at the very far reaches of the Dales and within striking distance of the Lake District. With the Howgill Fells providing the backdrop to the village, Sedbergh is an ideal location if you like your walking, but for the less adventurous, it is also a bit of a cultural hub, with a raft of great book shops and galleries.
If you head east from Sedbergh, you will soon find yourself in the rugged Northern Dales, on the main thoroughfare through Hawes, Aysgarth and onto West Burton. Hawes is a major market town in this region, and also home to the world famous Wenslesdale cheese factory (made famous by Wallace and Grommet!). A beautiful, and at times a very busy little town with lots of northern charm, it has a small waterfall running right through the middle of the town. If you wished, there is even a small park-up for the night at the cattle market for a small nominal fee.
There is no doubt that the Dales are a beautiful place to visit, drive around and camp, but the real draw of the area has to be the incredible range of activities open to visitors. If you like your walking, there is everything from gentle village strolls, to peaceful river walks, right up to some of the most challenging long distance trails in the country. In recent years Yorkshire has become synonymous with cycling, and the counties best rides are centred around this area. You may want to challenge yourself on a Tour de France or World Cup climb, or be more sensible and enjoy the endless miles of quiet and cycle-safe country lanes that meander throughout the region. Talking of meandering, there are pretty much unlimited opportunities for wild swimming in the Dales if you are brave enough to cope with the frigid water temperatures. The best thing however is that most of this wild swimming is river and waterfall based, normally with a safer (and saner) paddling option. Of course, one of the major pulls of the Dales has to be the traditional Yorkshire pubs and the warm and friendly welcome that they offer visitors. They are not all spit and sawdust places, with an increasing number of gastro pubs that offer a brilliant standard of hospitality.
The summer of 2021 will always be a time of such sad memories for our family, however throughout all of the grief and trauma, we managed to maintain our mental health and wellbeing by getting away into the countryside whenever we could. We thought that we knew the Dales inside out and back to front, how wrong could we be? We have fallen in love with this part of the world, and following our decision to retire early in 2022 to travel the world in our Campervan, we have decided to make the Dales our UK base.
Dedicated to the memory of a loving father, Malcolm Pickles (24/10/22) and a caring brother, Mark Pickles (23/11/22). May they rest in peace.
Our favourite campsites
Catgill Farm (www.catgillfarm.co.uk ) & Howgill Lodge (www.howgill-lodge.co.uk). Fantastic sites run by the same owners and to the same high standards. Good for Bolton Abbey.
Kettlewell (http://www.kettlewellcamping.co.uk). Village location and amazing showers.
Studfold Farm (www.studfold.com). A good range of activities for young families.
Ivy Bank camping and caravan glamping site (www.ivybankcampsite.co.uk). Bookable wood fired hot tubs brought to your van via a tractor!
Dalesbridge camping (www.dalesbridge.co.uk). Quality wood fired pizza.
Masons campsite (masonscampsite.co.uk ). Amazing riverside location with good glamping options.
Our favourite walks
Pen-y-Ghent from Horton-in-Ribblesdale.
Ingleborough from Chapel-le-Dale.
Ingleton waterfall circuit- an easy and well signposted walk with good parking.
Bolton Abbey river walk to the Strid falls.
Buckden Pike from Buckden via Cray.
Malham Cove & Tarn from Malham.
Goredale Scar via Janet’s Foss, Malham. A great waterfall and pool for a dip if you dare, followed by an impressive limestone ravine.
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