Following a week of chaos and excitement in the lively city of Bangkok, we ventured into the countryside to visit the historic town of Kanchanaburi and the Bridge over the River Kwai.
Taking the slow local train
During our trip to Thailand on our backpacking adventures, one of our goals was to utilize the local public transportation extensively, allowing us to slow down and explore some of the less touristy attractions.
Richard had extensively researched ways to reach Kanchanaburi, and the most exciting and economical option was to take the local train, costing 100TB per person (approximately £2.40). It is a 3 hour journey, stopping at lots of stations along the way. A great way to see rural Thailand.
Thonburi train station in Bangkok used to be one of the city's grand main stations, but now it is somewhat worn out and located in a rather neglected area. We took the overground train to the closest station and walked about a kilometre to reach it. If we had known how rundown the district was, with packs of stray dogs roaming the streets, we likely would have opted for a Tut Tut taxi instead.
The train was a unique experience in itself, a 3rd class local train for local people. There was no air-conditioning on board, instead a few fans on the roof and the windows wide open. It was a little disconcerting walking down the train as it was moving to find all the carriage doors open, including the door at the back of the last carriage! The seats were little more than padded wooden benches.
At each stop, traders would board the train selling a wide variety of traditional Thai street foods and drinks. A cold water was much appreciated after a few hours onboard! It was a great journey and one we would highly recommend.
Kanchanaburi
Kanchanaburi is a historic town known for the construction of the Death Railway and the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai during World War II. It is located where the tributaries of the River Kwai Noi and the River Kwai Yai converge to form the Mae Klong River.
We dedicated 2 days to exploring the town. Strolling across the renowned bridge was truly a humbling experience, particularly after visiting the museum and understanding the harrowing conditions endured by the prisoners of war who were forced to construct the Thailand-Burma 'Death' Railway. One statistic that truly shocked me was that more prisoners died during the railway's construction than there are railway sleepers! Some of the memorabilia and photos in the museum are quite heartbreaking to witness.
Another aspect that neither of us could grasp was the conditions in which the prisoners lived and worked, enduring extreme heat, food scarcity, and the jungle's wildness. Disease, particularly cholera, was rampant, and infections from the damp environment led to many soldiers dying from wounds that never had a chance to heal.
The River Kwai station is a charming and well-preserved small station, surrounded by historical relics of some original trains. We were lucky to see a train crossing the bridge, but were rather puzzled by the sight of people actually on the bridge and walking beside and behind the train as it moved slowly across!
We also visited the war graves cemetery in the town center, which was another humbling experience. There are 6,982 graves of British, Australian, and Dutch prisoners of war, representing only a small fraction of the lives lost during the construction of the Burma-Siam Railway commissioned by the Japanese.
We had only 2 nights in the town but could have spent longer. There are various day trips and tours you could do - including taking the train further up into the hills, and waterfall trails.
The town was an intriguing place at night, featuring several lively bars and restaurants along the main street. We enjoyed a fantastic meal at a craft beer bar, where we sampled some local ales as an alternative to Chang Beer. We encountered one alcohol outlet boasting that you could 'get drunk for 10TB (25p).' Somehow, we resisted—who knows what they were actually serving, especially after hearing about the deaths of backpackers in Laos. Next to the 10TB bar was the 'Cuddle Bar,' which appeared to be quite a dubious place, with scantily clad women soliciting customers!!
Pongphen Guesthouse
We stayed at a fantastic small hotel, the Pongphen Guesthouse. It was one of the most affordable accommodations during our entire trip, costing only £21 per night. This price included a substantial American-style breakfast and access to a swimming pool—truly a great deal.
The transfer to Koh Lipe
After our 2 days in the town we headed back to Bangkok on the train. We had a night staying in a cheap airport hostel before catching an early morning flight down to Hat Yai airport in the south of Thailand to start our island hopping adventures on Koh Lipe.
Following a friend's recommendation, we booked the flights through booking.com, and the process went very smoothly. The total cost for both of us, including checked baggage, was only £85, making the flights very affordable.
We arranged a minivan transfer from the airport to the ferry terminal and purchased speed boat tickets via the 12Go Asia website, which was a revelation. You just enter your starting point and final destination, and the algorithm provides several options at different price points to get you there. The total cost for the 2-hour shared minivan transfer and a 70-minute speed boat ride to Koh Lipe was £14 each, and everything went smoothly. Someone was waiting for us at the airport with a sign, dropped us off at the ferry terminal, and then guided us to the ticket office where our boarding passes were ready. How does all of this work for such a low cost?
To explore more details and information about the town and the hotel, click on the links below to view our Vlogs of Kanchanaburi. We highly recommend visiting this town if you're traveling around Thailand.
In our upcoming blog, we'll explore the stunning Island of Koh Lipe, a favorite destination from our backpacking journeys.
Jackie and Richard
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