When we woke on the municipal campsite in Samoens, the sun was just breaking on the towering peaks that overlooked the campsite. It was so nice to have space to spread out our stuff and have a relaxed start to the day. After a bit of planning, a bit of packing and a bit of supermarket shopping to see us through for a few more days, we found ourselves sat in the sun by Lac Bleu, having a breakfast of french bread and jam like two old hippies on a park bench!
We dumped the van there for the day, ready to head up the valley on the bikes, knowing that our return journey would be all down hill and end with a cooling swim in the most beautiful lake. We followed the River Gaffre upstream, to the cascade du Nant and then on through empty meadows to a lovely picnic spot by a crystal clear pool ideal for a dip after all the climbing of the day…ideal until we realised the temperature of said glacial melt water- it hurt simply to just paddle in it, so the swim would have to wait for the end of the day.
As predicted, the ride back down the valley was an absolute joy- the Gods even gave us a tail wind to help us on our way. By the time we had got to Lac Bleu we were cooking, so we both flopped unceremonially into the icy cold mountain water…and it was bloody cold! Not as cold as higher up the valley, but still enough to make you think! After a refreshing swim and a doze in the sun, we made plans to head up to the top of the valley and find a campsite recommended in our trusty guide book. The valley comes to an abrupt vertical bowl of rock that defines the the border with Switzerland. If it wasn’t for the guide, we would have missed out on one of our most memorable campsites.
Camping Le Pelly is situated right at the head of the valley at the Le Cirque du Fer-a-Cheval. A rustic and wild site, the location sells itself. A cheeky bonus of the ASCI discount meant we had an unbelievable camp for the night for £13 all in. The site literally took our breath away, as whatever direction you looked was a sheer wall vista of rock. As we arrived late, we got the BBQ fired up for burgers, took repeated photos as the light faded on the peaks and managed a game of sticks (which Richard one convincingly!).
It was so obvious that we needed to get out and about and explore the local area first thing in the morning, we had an early night under starlit skies with no light pollution to spoil our view. First thing we set off up the tributary valley from the bowl of the Le Cirque du Fer-a-Cheval. We pretty much had the place to ourselves as the morning haze burnt away to reveal yet more sheer rock faces and high craggy peaks. It was so nice to explore an area that we had absolutely no idea about- maybe we are ill informed, but we definitely felt that this was a hidden treasure that the French were looking to keep for themselves. After far too many photos and an increasing number of bonjour greetings to the growing number of visitors, we called it a day…not before having a chance encounter with one of the flock guard dogs that freely roam these parts to protect the livestock- he was an absolute cutey…despite being a bit smelly! Before we pulled away from the campsite, we gave the campsite cat one last loving, and then we were off.
Our initial plans were to head to the 3 valleys, but we both fancied a cheeky 24 hour stop off in Chamonix- one of our favourite places in the alps- and it was only 40 minutes away, rather than a 2 hour journey to the 3 valleys. The last time we had been in Chamonix had been just before the last European Covid lockdown when we realised that we had got 12 hours to get to the port before lockdown restrictions were put in place. For obvious reasons, Chamonix was a quieter place back then. The long haul international tourists have now returned and it was a much busier place. To be honest, after 7 days in the wilds, it scared us a little. The crowded feel took some readjusting to, particularly with American and Asian tourists who have no appreciation of personal space (or manners?).
Town was busy with van dwellers, so we headed up the valley to some quiet spots just outside Argentiere. We found a belting wild camping spot overlooking the Mer de Glase glacier, unbelievably with its own clean flushing toilet!!! We new that we needed to get a walk in the next day, and looked to our new best App- AllTrails- for recommendations. It didn’t let us down, suggesting a walk to get the best views of Mont Blanc. It was only planned to be an out and back 4km affair, however once we got sight of the alpine fixed ladders there was no turning back and the walk turned into a 9km loop with neatly 800m of vertical. Getting back to the van in the heat of the day prompted Richard to have his first true alfresco shower behind the van- a truly liberating experience! A quick stop off in town for some purchases and we were off to the 3 valleys- ready for a new home for the night.
Check out part 9 of our summer adventures here.
It's lovely to see sunny pictures of Sixt-fer-a-Cheval as we "discovered" this area near Samoens a short while after you (29 Sep 2022) - I have added a pic to show how different it can look. Still absolutely stunning though. Cheers Ann