So we are into our second week of our campervan road trip on the south west coast of England. After 2 nights on Dartmoor hidden away from the Easter Holiday weekend crowds, we decided it was time to head back to the coast to find some of the hidden coves and picturesque villages that Devon is renowned for.
First stop was a place recommended to us by a fellow traveller, a hike from the Little Dartmouth NT carpark down to Western Combe Cove. Resigning ourselves to the fact it was high tide, we thought we wouldn't actually get to descend on to the shale beach - but luck was on our side and we managed the steep scramble to be rewarded by a lovely little Cove all to ourselves.
Salcombe
Before finding a spot to stay for the night, we spent a wild and blustery afternoon exploring the harbour town of Salcombe. It reminded us very much of Abersoch and Padstow with a mixture of day trippers and sailing crews. It had a great variety of shops to peruse and an abundance of eateries. It was much more glitzy and cosmopolitan than the little harbour towns we had visited previously.
Hope Cove and Karrageen Campsite
Using the Wild Guide to Cornwall and Google Maps, we found the most amazing campsite for the night, just above the beautiful fishing village of Hope Cove.
Karrageen Campsite is run by a friendly young couple who took over the family business a few years ago. It is situated a mile above Hope Cove and we felt like we were in absolute isolated splendour. Admittedly it was a stormy evening with gusts of wind over 40mph raging around the campervan, so we were one of the only mad fools to be out camping.
However, the vibrant sun set across the valley and the plethora of wild life that visited us over the 24 hours made up for it. My favourite being the fox that sauntered past at 7.30am on his way home after a busy night.
Layering up with full winter coats, we walked the mile down to Hope Cove. We didn't really know what to expect as we had never heard of the village before. WOW - what a beautiful little village it was, hidden and tucked away until you rounded the final corner of the very tight and twisty country lane.
We were blessed with the sun making an appearance which lit up the harbour and gave the sea that wonderful blue hue. We almost wished we had bought our swimmers down for a dip in the sea! Almost...
I loved the thatched cottages sprinkled throughout the village with different thatched creatures stood proudly on each roof. Sadly we had not bought our wallets with us thinking that it was just a small sandy cove - otherwise we would have been tempted to have a pint and watch the sun set over the harbour.
Burgh Island
After the wild winds of the previous night, we set off to find Burgh Island, a small tidal island that can only be accessed at low tide by foot. We had hoped to get a ride on the huge sea tractor, but sadly it was not operating due to the high winds which were still whipping the sand around us. Instead, we had a cup of coffee and waited until the tide was low enough to cross.
It is a stunning island with little more than a pub, a posh hotel and a small cottage. We hiked up to the ruins at the peak of the island and were reared with great views across the bay back to the mainland.
Google maps was definitely sending us on some specials that day! We have driven down some of the tightest country lanes with long grass growing through the middle. We did put our foot down and refuse to go down the road that said it was prone to tidal flooding as it followed the edge of the estuary.
Cornwall
After a peaceful evening staying in a forest carpark, we headed over the Tamar Bridge and into Cornwall to another Harbour town - Looe. The weather at this point was not great with constant heavy showers. We had a wander around in the rain but we were not really feeling like being touristy which is a shame as it looked a lovely town.
We decided it was a good opportunity to get some jobs done and stock up on food for the next few days. The afternoon brightened up considerably, so we carried on along the coast road to explore the National Trust areas of Lantic Bay and Lansallos. Two stunning coves and beaches - both with pretty steep hikes out of them. We stumbled across a NT campsite which was in an absolutely stunning village. It was a shame we had already booked into a campsite near Mevagissey otherwise we would have stayed for a night.
Mevagissey and Pentewan Sands
After being on the road for 8 days we wanted to slow down bit as there were several areas in this part of Cornwall that we wanted to explore. We had seen a post on Instagram about a campsite right on the beach with great facilities and an indoor pool for only £13.50 a night in off peak weeks! It sounded too good to be true but being in need of a good shower and electricity to top up the laptops, we thought we would give it a go. It was that great we ended up staying for 2 nights!!
Instead of paying for electric hookup - we spent a pleasant night in the bar having a bottle of wine while working on the blog and latest video and charging the computers.
The campsite was about a 3km hike along the coastal path from the lovely harbour town of Mevagissey which we have visited previously and loved. We had a fab walk with stunning views and the treat of sharing a bag of chips on the harbour wall!
On the way back, we ducked down a very steep path with 185 steep steps (yes I counted them on the way back up!) which lead to the deserted cove of Polstreath. From above, the sea took on a deep aqua blue colour and it was pretty spectacular from ground level too. I have to admit, the struggles were real climbing back out to the coastal path, but totally worth it.
Exploring the mining history of the coast
All rested and polished, we carried on our travels around the coast. The next spot on our agenda was a hike along the coastal path to take in some of the old mining history and ruins. We were both in awe of the size of some of the ruins and the bleak locations they were situated in. We couldn't comprehend what the life of the miners would have been like and the constant dangers they faced.
Mousehole
In the afternoon we explored Mousehole, another little harbour town that was just delightful! I think it may be one of my favourite places I have visited it was that beautiful. The huge harbour walls protect the little village from the rough seas beyond and the water encased inside the walls has the loveliest pale blue colour to it against the white sands. Colourful boats bobbed around in the gentle lapping waves and children and adults were swimming in the calm waters.
The sun had come out for the afternoon and life at that point was pretty idyllic.
Porthcurno and Treen
One of the places had firmly been on our bucket list to visit on this trip was Porthcurno. It had been recommended to us by friends and after seeing their photo's of the stunning blue sea and white sandy beaches it was a must.
We found a great place to stay on the P4N App - a village carpark that cost £10 a night to stay and the public loos are open all night. It was absolutely perfect. The owner opens up the field next to the carpark when the weather is good and as luck would have it, he had mowed it ready for overnight visitors that morning!
There were several vans parked up as there was a performance on at the famous Minack cliff top, open air theatre which is about a mile away.
Again, it was another stunning walk along the cliff coastal path to get to Porthcurno. The beach was exactly as I had imagined, even though it was a cloudy, cold afternoon. We stood for a good half an hour mesmerised by the waves crashing against the cliff walls as the tide came. We climbed out of the beach along the steep path that led to the Minack Theatre, sadly as there was a performance on that evening it wasn't the right time to visit and the performance was sold out.
Instead, we headed back to the van and dropped down onto another very secluded cove underneath the cliffs at Treen. Sign posts warned that we may see nudity as it was a semi naturist beach but we were the only ones there and it was definitely too cold to get my kit off! It was a pretty steep and treacherous path down to the cove with a little scrambling involved.
We spent 2 nights at the park up and enjoyed some down time reading and cooking. We met a lovely young local couple who were interested in our travels skiing in the Alps - something they were interested in doing next season.
Nanjizal Beach, Landsend and Sennon Cove
We have spent the last 2 days at a fab campsite recommended to us by Paul and Geri from Sandandslippers. Trevedra Farm Campsite is situated within walking distance of the stunning beaches of Gwynver and Sennen Cove.
Each time we move on, the scenery and beaches just seem to get more spectacular. looking down from the cliff tops this morning, you could be mistaken for thinking we were in the Caribbean!
The campsite is quiet and we have the whole upper camping field to ourselves! Well apart from the herd of gorgeous cows in the field opposite. The sunset last night was amazing and we are looking forward to having a campfire tonight - the first one of the year.
Yesterday, we did a hike around the coastal path to Nanjizal Bay and Land's End. We had seen a picture of a rock pool in a cave at Nanjizal that you could swim in at low tide, so we took our swimmers with us. I am not going to lie it was bloody freezing. But WOW- what a beautiful bay and a great place for our first wild swim of the season.
Land's End is one of the first places on our tour that we have come across the crowds. We were really disappointed (and tight fisted) that you had to pay £10.99 to have a photo taken with the Iconic Land's End sign so we continued on our way and just took a photo of the view.
More disturbingly, on the hike around the cliff tops, just before we got to Land's End, we came across an adder basking in the sun on a rock. He quickly slithered away as we approached him - too quick for us to get a photo or video. I was amazed at the definition of the patterns on his back and actually how small it was. However, I did not stick around for a second look!
Today, we took a gentle hike along the beach from the campsite to the village of Sennon - again stunningly beautiful with white sand beaches and aquamarine blue seas.
When I write it all down, I realise just how much we have done in only 7 days! We have been truly blessed with the weather, the sun has made an appearance most days.
We have absolutely loved the Cornwall part of our adventures so far and we still have another 10 days to go. The scenery and beaches have been simply stunning and the people we have met have been warm and friendly.
We have thoroughly enjoyed our travels and although we have gone over our weekly budget- this was mainly due to staying on campsites and putting £50
of diesel in the van.
Weeks expenses
Diesel £50
Karrageen Campsite (inc EHU) - £31.50
Pentewan Sands campsite - 2 nights (No EHU) £27
Bottle of wine at bar £20
2 nights on Treen Carpark £20
2 nights at Trevarda Farm Campsite (no EHU) - £46
Lidl Shop £60
Chips on Mevagissey Harbour -£5
National Trust Carparks £4
Coffees in camp site cafe - £4
Bottle of wine and chocolates for Sunday night - £8
TOTAL - £275.50
So that's it for another week, as we make the turn north for home...at some point. What we do know is that we have another week of adventures ahead of us as we head into the more familiar territory of the north Cornish coast.
Have a great week,
Jackie & Richard
Comments